And so to Carbonear. NL On the way, we stopped at Cupids--a quiet little place--which has a museum featuring the oldest English settlement in Canada started in 1610--beautifully done with many keen guides. I always look for houses in bright colours but according to a lawyer breakfast mate, that is not a tradition. It was hard to keep any paint on the houses because of the strong winds and harsh weather and the idea of primary colours for houses only started in the 60s? And of course, with the TV ads for NL. Most of the houses in our experience have white or beige or charcoal siding.
A story of Karen, one of our hosts: She worked for an airline and visited here and loved it. So she returned a few times and then she turned 30 and visited again. She took a year off from work and helped with setting up the B&B of her future mother-in-law. Things like painting and helping with day to day guests. She felt the pull to move here. She met Eric who was fixing up his house and he offered his attic to her as a camping spot. And now, they have a son and a B&B. When they have guests they move to Eric's parents' house. They have three bedrooms and we were welcome to use the sitting area. She told us about a parenting course she is taking online. A lovely, comfortable person. She was talking about her parents and their friend who lived in the village. She used the term "5 minute friends" which is perfect to refer to people who are friends you don't see much but it is easy to pick up where you left off when you do see them. We have friends like that.
Our place in Carbonear is a huge house which was refurbished by the two fellows who own it and they are very proud of the results and so they should be. It is lovely. Our room had a huge Jacuzzi and a four poster bed. They are both chefs who also had other jobs in St. John's before retiring here. The food was yummy. When we arrived we took a small drive to view yet another iceberg. with a side trip to see George's friend's childhood home. The chilly weather is why there are icebergs in the middle of June. The NL Atlantic Ocean is not the same as the Atlantic Ocean of Oak, Island, NC.
And on to St. John's--about 1 1/2 hour drive. We stopped at the Rooms which is a marvelous museum/art gallery. It is called the Rooms because it is fashioned after the places where cod was salted and dried. A wonderful way to begin our trip here and also mark the middle of our road trip. There were many interesting exhibits, one called Myth or Truth in which Andy Jones had some input. Two local artists were also featured. There was Newfoundland A to Z and a tribute to the soldiers who were at Beaumont Hamel in France. A painting by David Blackwood was called "Moving House" painted during the time of resettlement--a house is literally being pulled by a boat in stormy seas. We had seafood chowder in the restaurant on the roof (indoors, of course). We sat by the window and had an amazing view of the harbour. Our hotel is on Duckworth Street--a couple of blocks from the harbour. We can see it from our window. Guess what, we have seen the Jelly Bean houses--some are old and some new. They are all in St. John's.
We settled in and then went walking. There are many rows of row houses painted many colours--some are new and some are old. I have been looking for these. The colours are more muted than the ads on TV. but delightful anyway. George Street has only bars and there was lots if music and people strolling around.
Next morning we had a sleep in and got to Signal Hill around noon. What an amazing view! We chatted with the guides because they were just standing there and I knew they would have lots of info to share. One was an architecture students at U of T, another was studying French at Memorial U. They showed us the battery and of course, the cannons. We asked about whales and seems like it is too early for them to be here. (Maybe next week.) The whales eat caplon a kind of fish that jumps out of the water. One of the guides had tasted these fish and the other hadn't. Guide #1 said the other guide was from town (that is St. John's) so she would not have tried them. It was an interesting time. Then we went to Quidi Vidi to the Brewery for a beer tasting. Our guide there was very personable. There was a group of guys who were from the Annapolis Valley in NS and were here for a bachelor party. We learned that Newfoundlanders drink more beer than everyone in Canada except the Yukon. Their beer is only sold here. At dinner, we sat by the harbour and watched the boats come in.
It is June 18 and we visited Cape Spear the farthest point east in North America. Putting up signs that say "Danger, Keep to the walkways" is like saying come over here and walk near the cliffs. There are two lighthouses here, one old, now a museum and the other is still in use. We sat in some Canada 150 chairs at the top of the Cape. It was very windy and I told George that I felt like I had been in the dryer, George replied it would be warmer in the dryer! Since leaving Ottawa, we have driven 3662 kms, slept in 12 beds, ate seafood chowder 4 times, saw zero moose, driven around too many potholes, saw large trucks with moose catchers on the front and have had a grand time. We also stopped at a marker for Mile 0 on the transCanada highway.
It is Father's Day and we chatted with our Offspring on FT. I finished George's slippers and they fit. We had seafood chowder for dinner and went to see "Wonder Woman"--cool movie. Driving in St. John's is a challenge. One guide told us that after the 1892 fire that burned most of St. John's, they were in a hurry to rebuild and there wasn't a plan. As a result, there are sometimes five roads coming together at an intersection and sometimes three and there are many hills and streets change in the middle of the block. They have a beer they brew called 1892. We had a walk to see the point where Terry Fox put his foot into the ocean. He was only 23 at the time. There is a monument there like the one in Ottawa.
On our way out of St. John's, we stopped at the Memorial University Botanical Gardens. Quite lovely, mostly greens. A worker who is studying Political Science at MUN told us that they compost to get the soil for the garden. She was planting potatoes in a raised bed. She grew up in PEI on a potato farm. We had a pleasant walk and then drove to Argentia where we boarded the Ferry for a 16 hour trip to North Sydney, NS. We had a cabin and slept pretty well except in the middle of the night when the rocking seemed worse. Farewell to Newfoundland. You are great.
Next morning, we drove to Moncton with a stop in Baddeck for breakfast. We also, stopped in Memramcook, to view Claudette's childhood home town and a monument to the Acadians. The lilacs are blooming. Our Moncton hotel is on the Petitcodiac River which looks like chocolate milk. We watched the tidal bore come in with the tide four times. There is a river walk and viewing sites along the shore. Often there are surfers waiting for the wave and then they ride it as long as they can. Chatted with a few Americans while waiting for the wave. It is interesting the way the water fills the basin to the top. We had dinner at a restaurant suggested by Grant. Yum. On Wednesday, our bottoms were "dunched" by the time we returned from our day. We visited Cape Hopewell--called Hopewell Rocks-- on the Bay of Fundy. The tides are truly amazing. First we viewed the rocks at high tide and then went off to Dickson Falls and then to Cape Enrage. Then returned at the end of the day to walk on the ocean floor--which was amazing and muddy. We also visited Fundy National Park and sat on red chairs again. We have a pass thanks to a friend of Sheryl's. What a day!
Our last day in Moncton, we watched the Tidal Bore once again. Even while I watched I wondered if it was really happening. Next stop Saint John where we visited the museum which was disappointing as the art gallery wasn't open and there were a couple of classes of children there who had no idea about museum behaviour--lots of running and yelling. Saint John has a vibrant downtown , very charming. We enjoyed wondering around in the Market Square area where there is an indoor market that was great. And then on to Blacks Harbour to the Ferry. We were early so the ferry representative suggested we go to the beach and look for sea glass and that is what we did. I don't know what to do with sea glass but it was pleasant walking by the beach looking for some. George had a chat with the husband of a woman who was searching as well. When I asked her what she did with it, she said she had a huge container of it and she just collected it. We boarded the ferry which is lots smaller than the ones from NL but we arrived at Grand Manan Island safe and sound. Our place overlooks the water. This will likely be a relaxing few days. Yay! Just a note, we found a book about sea glass and it really is a thing.
At breakfast the next morning, there were 5 others who told us that there is lots of stuff to see here. Two were here to take photographs from the USA and the three women were touring around--seeing every site there is and are from BC. We spent the day driving the length of the island, stopping at coves and to looking over the cliffs. The rock is in layers and resembles the basalt we saw in Iceland. and in an exhibit at the Museum of Human Rights in Winnipeg. We had a lovely walk on the beach and I collected some rocks, feel a bit like Al Simmons! We also visited the Swallow Tail Lighthouse which was refurbished by the people of Grand Manan. We had probably one of the best chili we have ever eaten today at Jitters, a hole-in-the-wall coffee shop here. And now there is so much fog that we can't see the ocean from our window. We hear fog horns all the time. Interesting place. We spent a relaxing evening. I even watched two episodes of the latest season of Murdoch Mysteries--love it.
The day dawned foggy, rainy and cloudy so we went off to do our laundry. By the time we were done, had pizza at the Post Office/Pizza place. played scrabble and looked at the things for sale, the sun was shining and it was a lovely day. We went down to the beach to look for sand dollars but alas, we found some cool rocks and some sea glass but only 1/2 of a sand dollar. I took my shoes off and oh, the ocean was ice cold and the rocks slippery and green. Then we went to a Square Foot Show at the Art Gallery. All of the participating 47 artists had produced a work on a canvas that was one foot square. We got to vote for three of our favs and had refreshments and then home. I was tired but George wanted to take a few more lighthouse photos so he went off to Swallow Tail Lighthouse. We spend most of our time together so it was strange when he was away. I texted him.
Sunday and we are off to the Ferry to return to the mainland and visit St. Andrews by the Sea. People are friendly and interesting--chatted with a couple from Quebec City while waiting for the Ferry to arrive. Then on the Ferry, we were on the upper deck and shared a bench with a couple from Maine who were also great travellers. The hour and a half hour seemed to fly by as we chatted about our respective travels. St. Andrews is a lovely place about the size of Neepawa fewer than 2000 people. I read this morning it was proclaimed the number one place to visit in Canada. We are staying at Treadwell House and it will be 200 years old in a couple of months. It is beautiful--our balcony faces the water. We had a walk on the beach--I would love to find a sand dollar but alas, none today. We also visited Kingsbrae Garden and St. Andrews Anglican Church which was built in 1867. Prince Charles and Diana were there for an anniversary--so says a plaque under the Wales flag in the church. The Garden had a Therapy Garden for all but especially for seniors who live near by. The beds were raised so they can be tended from a wheelchair. We are relaxing in the sunshine. I think George saved the best place for the end of our trip.
Finally we didn't chair swim but visited the beach to watch the tide come in. There isn't much sand, mostly just small rocks. The temperature was pleasant so it was great to get our Oak Island chairs from the trunk and use them.until the tide backed us up.
Wednesday, our trip home begins--5 hours and we will be in Riviere du Loup, Quebec by the end of the day. A black bear crossed over both divides of the highway in front of us. Although there were Moose Warning signs, we didn't see one the whole trip. Our Best Western in Rieviere du Loup faced the St. Lawrence and we have floor to ceiling windows to enjoy the sunset. Thursday, 6 hours to Linda and Larry's. Our bottoms will be dunched. We have driven 6000 kilometers since June 1.
We will have keys to our new place by Friday, June 30 and will sleep there. Saturday is Canada Day. Yay. We will participate in the Living Flag, have a hot dog and see what is happening on the Hill.
A quote from Henry David Thoreau: "My life is like a stroll on the beach as near to the edge as I can get." Our 2 1/2 years of travel have been the best. Thanks to you all who read these blogs--on average 25 per. They are a lovely reminder of our travels as Meanderthals. And we have so many great photos, too. Yay.
There will be one more blog in this series because moving needs to be blogged about.
Great detail Pat....it was so nice to have you guys include us in your travel plans....we are looking forward to the coffee table book versions, complete with photos.
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